The Sassy Steel Magnolia
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  • Archives

  • October10th

    Mah-velous Magnolia • Mr. Petersen

    Posted in: looking glass, Mah-velous Magnolia

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    My apologies for this post coming out 2 days later than usual. I had intended it to be on Friday as is customary, but even the best laid plans get side tracked here and there. All week I’ve relayed to you the story of my experience with Cosmetic Artist, Andrew C. Petersen. Today I want to introduce you to the man behind the brush and what drives him to do the work he does. And thus, I present the first ever male to be name a Mah-velous Magnolia:

    Andrew C. Petersen

    Starting his career in 1991 in Chanel cosmetics, he has traveled from New York to Europe, landing in the chic city by the sea, Charleston, South Carolina. I asked Andrew what has kept him going in the field of makeup all these years and his answer was simple: the people.

    “The people you meet through makeup have such an impact on your life. You connect with them. It’s such a personal thing to touch someone’s face. They are letting me into their world. They trust me. It’s an honor and a privilege.”

    He described the experience as humbling when teaching women about their features, helping them to embrace their inner and outer beauty, encouraging them to take chances and try new things, and empowering clients to face the world in their own unique coat of armour.

    A makeup artist truly concerned with client well-fare, Andrew’s work far exceeds that of the beauty counter.  He is an active member in the community, contributing his time to organizations and causes such as the Ryan White Foundation, LowCountry AIDS Services, Charleston Center for Women, and the South Carolina Association of Professionals and Advocates to name a few.  He received the Unsung Hero commendation in 2009 from the state of South Carolina for his work in HIV / AIDS awareness and prevention.

    A truly inspirational individual, Andrew continues each and every day to enrich the lives of those he meets, always making sure to leave them with the most important impression of all….a smile.

    To learn more about Andrew visit his Web site, follow him on Twitter and keep up to date via his Facebook page. If you’re in the Charleston area, stop in at the brand new Cos Bar location Downtown on King Street, opening in November, to say hello and meet the man behind the brush.

    *To read all the posts in my series with Andrew, please click here.

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    The Mah-velous Magnolia badge will be awarded each Friday to a selected lady {or a few..or fellas..we’ll see!} who has had an impact on my week.  Who knows — maybe you’ll be up next!

  • October7th

    My Looking Glass

    Posted in: beauty, life, looking glass

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    Like I said in my post Tuesday morning, when I first came up with the idea to do this I simply wanted to learn how to apply makeup for my age and lifestyle. I had indeed lost that love of makeup I once had when I received my first compact of pressed powder 13 years ago. I was busy. I was tired. The whole idea of makeup had become tedious, sloppy, reserved for special occasions, you name it.

    What I discovered through this adventure was more than what I had set out too. I realized I was on the track of letting a big part of me go, and not in a good direction. Somewhere along the line I had become almost fearful of the entire world of makeup because I realized I knew so little about it anymore.

    The way Andrew first started to explain it to me was simple: Putting on and taking off your makeup is your time. In the morning you are putting on your amour, getting ready to take on the world, and at night you are cleansing yourself from the day and preparing to rest for all the wonders that await for you come morning. That’s your time. It should be special, not rushed or tasking.

    That’s what I had lost. More than not really knowing what to do or how to do it, I’d lost the pure simple pleasure of glancing into my looking glass and seeing a reflection that I had taken time and care into creating. I’d forgotten what it was like because I had stuck it in a box for “dolled up occasions only”. I often talk about taking time for yourself and doing things to make yourself feel fabulous and glamorous but in reality I was guilty of neglecting one of the most basic tools to make either of those happen. I’d neglected to take time for me.

    I was reminded of those feelings the Saturday morning I met with Andrew. When I excused myself to the powder room to change I stood and stared at my reflection. I can not even explain the feeling that came over me. All I know is at that moment I was suddenly reminded of all that had escaped me.

    I had finally found the spark I’d lost over the years, staring back at me through my looking glass.

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    Even though I repeatedly thank Andrew for all he has helped me with, I don’t think I’ll ever be able to say it enough. Here’s a few more to add to the bag….

    Thank You, Mr. Andrew C. Petersen. Thank You.

    –

    I’ve loved sharing my experience with you, dear readers, and I hope you have enjoyed this week’s posts cataloging my adventures in makeup with Andrew. Who knows, I think I might just have to name my first male Mah-velous Magnolia….I guess we’ll have to see what tomorrow brings….

    Photo Credit:  I’d like to send another Thank You to Christina of Good Graces Photography. Without you and your talent, I have no idea how I would’ve made these posts possible.

    *To read all the posts in my series with Andrew, please click here.

  • October7th

    One Brush Stroke at a Time

    Posted in: beauty, looking glass

    ….Enhancing the beauty of individuals, one brush stroke at a time….

    You better believe as soon as I had an Internationally Trained Cosmetic Artist sitting down in front of me, it was no holds bar. I had a ton of questions I wanted to ask (and the only key to get out of the building). Andrew didn’t hesitate to pour out his time-tested knowledge on the table. Below are some of my favorites things I learned from Andrew that morning with a few extras along the way…. Enjoy!

    Primer. Eye base. Mascara. Bronzer (or Blush). Lip Gloss. And there’s your basics! Start with those items and add a variety of shades and items to your makeup collection. *For Night Time Sassy basics go with: Brow pencil. Highlighter. Darker eye shadow.

    Must know info: makeup has an expiration date. Think in terms of the bacteria that is transferred between your face, to your compact, on brushes, in your bag, the air, over time it can add up.  (ahem…time to clean out those I may one day need this shade drawers) Stick with this: Mascara = 3 months. Liquids = 6 months. Powders = 1 year.

    An easy way to remember when it’s time to replace items for the face? Change with the seasons. As with your wardrobe, you should get into a habit of changing your makeup routine seasonally as well. In the spring and summer your face is generally a different shade than in fall or winter, makeup is a tool to accentuate your features so make sure it changes with your skin. (and weather conditions!)

    The best way to know just how much to alter your routine from season to season is to establish a relationship with a professional cosmetic artist! This can save you a lot of headaches and money. Have a consult, really learn about what works best for you and you’ll be able to return to your artist as seasons change and trends pop up. “Would I try to do my own taxes? Umm….no. I’m not an accountant.” Do yourself a favor and make the initial investment, establish that relationship and watch them both blossom as time rolls by.

    Speaking of investment, do you get stuck in the high street vs. drug store dilema? When to spend the money? What to spend the money on? Here it is straight from a cosmetic artist’s mouth: Invest in your basics – foundation, brushes, mascara, etc., and buy Trend on the Cheap.*Having a relationship with a cosmetic artist comes in handy here, too.

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    :: Brush Basics ::
    -Make the investment, take care of them, and your brushes will last.
    -Wash your brushes at least 2 times a month. (hand soap and water will do)
    -The softer the brush, the less color it will hold.
    -Stay away from sponges! “Sponges are b*&^#@$!”

    Sponges soak up makeup, causing you to waste, so stick with brushes. You can build your brush collection over time, adding new ones here and there, but for your convenience here is the Starting Line Up of Brushes: concealer – all over eye – beveled eye – eye liner – larger powder – blush

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    If you aren’t sure how you feel about makeup, give Andrew’s Try 3 new things, 3 times a week a go. Not sure what he means? Watch this quick video segment from one of his Beauty Bootcamp sessions where he explains more in detail.

    Interested in money saving tips while still looking fabulous? His Budget Beauties post gives great tips on just exactly how to do this! (There’s a few home made remedies, too.)

    And above all, always remember this:

    “You want people to say ‘YOU look gorgeous!’, not ‘Your makeup looks good.’ “

    - Andrew C. Petersen

    *To read all the posts in my series with Andrew, please click here.

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    *Note: I didn’t really threaten to not let him out of the building, he was more than willing (& patient) to answer all of my questions, even when I didn’t really know what I was asking! He’s awesome like that.

    photo credit: good graces photography

  • October6th

    music snack : andrew c. petersen style

    Posted in: looking glass, Music Snack

    You never know what you’re going to get when you say to someone “give me your top 3 favorite songs.” When I posed the question to Andrew I was in no way disappointed with his answers. All his choices were top notch but when my eyes landed on today’s Music Snack, I knew it was fate that lead our paths to cross.

    It’s your life. Don’t you want to rock it out?

    Bon Jovi – It’s My Life

    (If you have trouble viewing this video, please click here.)

    I’m gonna do it my way.  And you can be damned sure I’ll look like a Rockstar while doing it.

    And yourself?

    *To read all the posts in my series with Andrew, please click here.

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    The Music Snack comes out every Wednesday to give you a little musical break for your week. It could be my favorite song, it could’ve come on the radio that day, or it could mean absolutely nothing what so ever. You’ll just have to come back and see. Suggestions are always welcome ;)

  • October5th

    Retouch of the Brush: Lessons in Makeup

    Posted in: beauty, lessons learned, looking glass

    “Beauty shines from within and makeup frames that.”

    -Andrew C. Petersen

    To put it bluntly: my frame was busted. And I was in need of a serious retouch  - with all the brushes.

    And so it began ….

    With the help of Christina of Good Graces Photography I was able to document my makeup application lesson with Andrew. Under the often unforgiving fluorescent lighting of my office (Location selected on purpose, because let’s be honest – how many places do you know that have perfect lighting? Exactly.), I sat down with zero makeup on my face and braced myself for what was about to unfold.

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    First step begins with skin care.  Daily washing of your face in the morning and at night and use an exfoliate (with round beads, NO grains!) at least once a week, or whatever works best for your skin. And then hydrate, always always hydrate with a moisturizer and never forget the SPF (interesting fact about SPF coming up Thursday that I’d never known before!). After swiping a cleansing cloth over my face, Andrew used a really light moisturizing primer. Good thing I learned about primer, it moisturizes and fills in the little cracks.

    Primer: “Its like putting a slip on under your skirt.”

    Best explanation I’ve ever heard. Once your skin is ready, its time to get your brush on. And it starts with the eyes. One of many lessons I learned that day – always start with the eyes.

    *Note: I tend to go rather natural with my makeup for everyday and at the office. Andrew walked me through on how to Take A Step Up if I’m meeting people out for drinks after work as well as a Night Time Sassy for hitting the town. These steps can easily be tailored to you with your matching color palette.

    Eyes

    Why start there? “Women tend to wear too much foundation. When you start with the eyes you’re nearly half way done when you finish them.” Starting with the eyes also make clean up of smudges or powder sprinkles much easier when there’s not other makeup to wipe away.

    • With chin up, looking down apply an eye base (primer) all over the lid of your eye and don’t forget the corner. This evens skin tone and, if you’re a natural fan like me, can be used as your eye color for a natural look. Apply this with a brush (the same as the one you use as your concealer) or your finger tip.
    • After your eye base add a light color to the ball of your eye, i.e. from your lash line up to the crease.
    • Mascara – Hold the mascara wand upwards and swipe across the bottom of your lashes. This helps separate them to avoid the clumpy tarantula eyes (scary). For your top lashes hold the wand flat and swipe them up your lashes, wiggling the wand a bit to help with separation.  When completed use a mascara brush (or another tool I’ll mention Thursday) to separate even further if needed.

    • Clean up: This is a big reason you do your eyes first! Use a Q-Tip to touch up any areas that you see fit. The shadow doesn’t get caught in concealer or your foundation because it’s not on yet. Always use a Q-Tip – so much easier than smudging it around with your finger.

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    • Take it Up a Notch: With a beveled brush do a windshield wiper motion in the crease of your eye with a slightly darker color than that on the ball of your eye. Aim to cover 3/4ths of the crease.
    • Use a powder Eye Liner, with a brush, to lightly line your top lid. As for the bottom, line as far as you have lashes. (I always had questions about that – never understood the half way situation.) Don’t worry if the shadow sprinkles off or you get out of line. Another reason to put eyes first, ladies!

    • Night Time Sassy: Take a darker eye color to the outer corner of your eye and brush up slightly from the lash line. (Andrew used a dark charcoal on me.) A technique I had never done before but provides great, subtle results. *Understanding the whole, less is more theory finally.
    • Use a brow pencil (that matches the color of your hair) to trace your brow and lightly brush out. *I had never used a brow pencil but I was a big fan after I saw what it can do when used properly. It’s something I experiment with – I’m learning my way of the brow.

    Foundation / Concealer / Powder


    Once your eyes are completed it’s time to move on to the rest of your face. This is the part I’m usually cautious about. I’m weary of liquid foundations because I don’t like to feel that cakey feeling some can leave. Andrew urged me to step out of my box and try a light foundation with an SPF in it. So I sat back, said You’re the Boss, Apple Sauce (not really, but I thought it) and decided to see what happened. Well, he was right about trying out different brands and types until you find one that feels right – because I might have fallen in love with the bottle of foundation that morning. Important notes to remember about the whole Foundation / Powder / Concealer order:

    Liquid Foundation before Powder
    Liquid Foundation before Concealer
    Concealer before Powder

    Foundation: Andrew put my foundation on with a brush and during this point I realized how little you really need to use. And you don’t have to cover every surface of your face. <–I’d been completely mistaken since day 1 on that. Good to finally know and see for myself!

    *Great tips and insider information on Foundation in Thursday’s post.

    Concealer: Use the wand to put concealer on your face first then a brush (can be same brush as your eye base after cleaning it off – more on brushes Thursday!) to blend it in. Dab concealer on the creases of your nose first - “We all get red here, it’s not just you, don’t worry!” – to even out skin tone. Then small triangles under your eyes to counter act pesky little bags. Dab the brush in the areas you want to conceal, rather than swipe the brush, to help the concealer cover the desired areas better.

    Powder: Run a light sweep of pressed powder (or loose but I’m a clutz and spill it everywhere, and I just got a new makeup bag that I don’t want it to fall out in) over your face. Dab the powder in areas, such as the crease under your bottom lip, that you want to cover a little more and sweep the brush for the rest.

    Blush :: Bronzer


    “My colors are blush and bashful…I have chosen two shades of pink, one is much deeper than the other” – Steel Magnolias

    I’ve always had issues with blush and bronzer. Blush in a sense that I get confused on exactly where to put it and how far to go and well, you know the blush struggle. But Andrew showed me exactly where blush should go and even pointed out that I had selected (after years of trials with this one) the correct blush color for me. (Yay! Fist pump.) So where does blush go?

    On the High Apple of your Smile

    Now with bronzer it was always more of a color / quantity control situation. I used to think of bronzer as a chance to turn my entire face and color a nice golden tan. <– Thank goodness that statement is in the past tense. For my skin tone Andrew suggested I go with a pink-based bronzer.

    I knew bronzer is meant to highlight features but again, I had no clue how to do that…until I was introduced to the E & 3 method.  With your brush start at your forehead and trace a light E (forehead to mid cheek to chin) on one side of your face then do the same but trace a light 3 on the other side. Trace a light line down your nose and even lighter on your esophagus. *Note: this is the only time you put makeup anywhere other than your face.

    Night Time Sassy: Use a light highlighter on the cheek bone, brow bone and the inner corner of your eye. The highlighter Andrew used on me was a light, cream-based color he simply dabbed on with the brush.

    Lips

    For my lips Andrew used a chubby lip pencil and gloss. I like to keep my lips natural 90% of the time so this was right up my ally! Easy to carry with me and touch up throughout the day and still look great? Sold. And with this route I didn’t have to worry about trying to trace the outline of my non-existent top lip and wonder should I fill in or not fill in and…yea. The chubby pencil took away those worries and gloss (which he said I can switch with my Rosebud Salve whenever I please because the pencil will still provide a touch of color) adds that splash of shine everyone loves!

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    Put it all together and this is my transformation:

    And there you have it. Exactly how Mr. Andrew C. Petersen walked me through step by step in the makeup application process. *I might have missed a few details here and there on accident. (Andrew, please forgive me if I did!) The best part was that he would show me something and then have me do the other side. When I looked in the mirror I knew he didn’t just make me over, whirl my chair around and give a Taadaaa! I did part of it myself. Having the confidence of knowing you can walk out and with a little practice do it yourself every day makes the world of difference. Trust me on that one.

    Overall, my every day makeup averages about 20 – 30 minutes. Before that might have been a bit of a pain trying to squeeze that in to my mornings, but now…now I don’t mind waking up a little earlier each day to take some time for myself.

    I totally deserve it.

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    *Believe it or not – I left out about 1/3 of everything we talked and laughed about in this post. But don’t you worry, that’s why there’s another post with more tips, tricks and some of his hilarious one liners coming to you on Thursday morning.  Stay tuned …..

    * THANK YOU *

    To Andrew for showing me the way & to Christina for capturing it all.

    *To read all the posts in my series with Andrew, please click here.

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